There are a lot of options for bowden couplers and while I haven’t tried them all, here are the ones I’ve tried and my experiences with them. They were all used with 1.75mm filament, 4mm teflon tubes, a BondTech extruder, and an E3D v6.
I’m always surprised when a 3D printer designed around printing PLA comes without a part cooling fan. Though less so in the case of the Tiko, given the pricepoint. If you’ve seen some of my extruder designs, I prefer printing with a lot of airflow, the more the better (as long as you have control over it). So here’s one way to add part cooling to the Tiko.
I’ve heard many times over that to test backlash in a printer you can grab it by the nozzle and wiggle it around (with the nozzle cold of course, but with the motors powered up). Ideally nothing moves, but when I tried that with my Tiko there was a disconcerting amount of motion. The motion came primarily from two sources, the motor mounts and the flexible delta rods. The movement from the rods at least offered up a bit of resistance so I expect those to be only an issue at higher speeds, but the movement in the motor mounts offered almost no resistance.
I assume this is the source of many of the unexpected motion I sometimes see from my Tiko, the jumping to the side when moving the nozzle up and down, the shifting when trying to print a straight line. You can see some of the shifts in the raft print above, the nozzle will be printing a straight line and it will shift to the side. Interestingly you can also see some craters in the filament, that’s what happens when you don’t store your filament properly and it absorbs moisture (I’ve mostly been testing unspooled leftover filament that wasn’t stored properly). I store all of my open filament spools in watertight bins and with rechargeable desiccant, but you can read more about that here,
I added some epoxy tubing to reinforce the the delta arms on my Tiko. The tubes are approximately 200mm long and have an inside diameter of 0.219 inches (5.56mm). You can get them from Tap Plastics, but you will need to cut them yourself (one 32.5″ rod can be cut down to 4 – 201mm rods for the Tiko, you’ll need 6).
My first prints with the Tiko was terrible (not unusual for a 3D printer), I used the default settings including the default temperature of 210°C and it was clearly too hot, making the test print come out a melted mess. No problem, I know how to fix that. So next I tried 190°C and it came out very underextruded. The clicking sounds made it clear that the something in the extruder system wasn’t keeping up.
Along with some 16 thousand other people, I joined the Tiko Kickstarter in the spring of 2015, and it recently arrived in the last days of 2016. The Tiko is an interesting printer, a mini delta, costs less than $200, includes built in WiFi, is fully enclosed, is fanless, comes with a built in slicer, is compatible with other slicers and filaments, and is easy to setup. And although it doesn’t come with a heated bed, it’s also compatible with the heated bed of my Eustathios (pictured above). As of early 2017, here’s a few of my first impressions (I expect things will be changing quickly).
This post describes my initial build of a Eustathios Spider v2 (github link) in 2015. It isn’t a detailed build log, just a list of changes I made from the standard build process and the rationale behind them. I have made other modifications since then, but I will have to save that for a future post.
A flying extruder makes a lot of sense on a delta, where it moves much less than the hotend (shorter distances and slower speeds) but it doesn’t seem like it would translate well to a cartesian printer. I tried it anyways. I didn’t like the artifacts I was getting from a long bowden drive or direct drive on my Eustathios, and in the process of shortening the bowden tube, I ended up with a cartesian version of a flying extruder setup.
This is my 10in³ Rigidbot, part of the Rigidbot Kickstarter in May of 2013, and delivered in August of 2014. Given the low price and large build area, I wasn’t really expecting a usable printer, but I figured it would be cheaper and easier than buying the parts to build one myself. What was delivered was well beyond what I expected and I’m grateful to Michael Lundwall the Rigidbot team for everything they put into designing, manufacturing, and delivering this printer.
While the RigidBot was a great deal, print quality and reliability out of the box was not as good as my Afinia H-Series* (not surprising as the Rigidbot was a first gen machine sold at 1/4 the price with 6 times the build volume). Since then I’ve upgraded, modified, and rebuilt the printer, it now works much better than the Afinia ever has (I have since given away the Afinia). This list includes the current changes I’ve made to my printer, but does not include the temporary changes I’ve tried along the way. Some of these changes were copied from or inspired by others in the Rigidbot Google+ community.
These are a few notes on smoothieboard configuration for my Eustathios Printer. Keep in mind the date of this post as much of this will be out of date soon – things are changing quickly with the smoothie firmware and new improvements are added regularly. I may come back and update this as things change.